The questions people ask most about flooring, answered straight — not like a sales floor. 12 questions so far, grouped by topic.
Yes, for wood-based products — solid hardwood, engineered hardwood, laminate. Give it 48 to 72 hours minimum in the room at normal living conditions, boxes opened or stacked with airflow between them. Vinyl and tile don’t move with humidity the way wood does, so they don’t need the same wait. Skipping acclimation is the single most common cause of gapping and buckling in the first year.
That’s the expansion gap, and it’s intentional — baseboard or trim covers it. Every floating or nailed wood-based floor needs roughly 1/4" to 1/2" of clearance at every wall to move with seasonal humidity. If you can see it without moving the baseboard, the trim install is the problem, not the floor.
Sometimes, and it depends on both floors. LVP and laminate can often float over a single layer of existing vinyl or tile if it’s flat and well-bonded. You can’t float a new floor over carpet, over more than one existing layer, or over anything with active moisture issues. When in doubt, removal usually costs less than the callback.
Usually, yes — check two things first. The tile itself needs to be sound: no loose, cracked or hollow-sounding pieces, since rigid-core vinyl will telegraph any movement underneath it. The less obvious check is what the tile is sitting on — foundations settle over time depending on regional soil conditions, and a slab that is still shifting will crack a new floor’s joints no matter how solid the tile looks on top. If both check out, going over the tile skips a demo step along with its dust and cost.
Usually because they’re not quoting the same scope. Check whether each price includes removal and disposal of the old floor, subfloor prep, transitions and baseboard reinstallation. A bid that looks 30% lower often just moved those line items to an invoice you’ll see later.
Sometimes — but you take on the risk of ordering the wrong quantity, the wrong underlayment, or a defective batch with no installer standing behind the material. If you go this route, buy about 10% extra for waste and keep the receipts and lot numbers in case a claim comes up later.
Real, if the numbers back it up. Ask for the actual measurement — roughly 3/16" of variation over a 10-foot span is the typical threshold for many rigid-core and tile installations. If they can show you the high and low spots with a straightedge, it’s legitimate. If they can’t point to a number, ask more questions.
Yes, always — and it’s the step that gets skipped most often on a budget job. A calcium chloride or in-situ relative humidity test costs very little next to what a failed floor over a wet slab costs to redo.
Usually not — a single squeak is almost always one fastener that missed the joist or worked loose, not a structural issue. Squeaking spread across a whole room, or paired with visible sag, is worth having someone look at.
Depends entirely on the material. Solid hardwood can be sanded and refinished. Engineered wood depends on how thick the veneer is. LVP and laminate generally can’t be repaired in place — the wear layer is the whole system, and a damaged plank usually gets swapped or lived with.
Likely, over time. Luxury vinyl is built as fused layers — wear layer, print film, core — and the heat from a steam mop can soften the adhesive holding them together, letting the layers separate (delamination) well before the floor would otherwise wear out. It also voids the warranty on nearly every vinyl product sold; manufacturers exclude steam cleaning by name, not as a technicality. A damp mop and a pH-neutral cleaner get vinyl just as clean without the risk — it was never a floor that needed heat to come clean.
It is a real tradeoff, not just taste. Light wood reflects more light, which reads as more spacious and hides dust, pet hair and minor scratches between cleanings — genuinely more forgiving day to day. Dark wood shows every mark of daily life clearly, but reads as more formal and grounds a room that has a lot of white or neutral furniture in it. Neither wears any differently — color is finish, not hardness — so the choice comes down to the room’s light and how much visible upkeep you want to see between cleanings, not durability.
Answer eight questions about the room and how you live in it, and get a shortlist scored against all 21 materials — including why the ones that didn't make it got ruled out.